TREATMENTS ON TRIAL
Two aesthetic obsessed sisters are behind Future Beauty - Liz and Nikki Dwyer. Liz is a stalwart of the beauty industry in Ireland and is an award-winning Beauty Editor and journalist, a regular contributor to TV and radio and Host of Extreme Beauty on TV3 along with the rest! Nikki is a lawyer and between them they have road tested nearly all of the most talked-about non-invasive treatments over the past decade. Here’s info on the good, bad and downright dangerous treatments they have personally tried over the years.
below is our round-up of the top 5 Tweakments of 2021!
To learn more about tweakments, and even try some of them complimentary, be sure to join us at Future Beauty Show on January, 29-30, at the RDS where you can discover, try and research all the latest options for all manner of face, body and hair concerns.
Tweakment NO 1
SecretPro radiofrequency micro-needling skin rejuvenation. If NASA had been tasked to reinvent micro-needling, they would likely have come up with something akin to the SecretPro. This two-in-one type of technology blew up Instagram last August after Kim Kardashian posted about its age-reversing prowess. This double-duty tweakment layers the benefits of the skin resurfacing powers of CO2 fractional laser with the rejuvenating power of radiofrequency micro-needling. Essentially the heat from the CO2 laser resurfaces the skin’s top layer and sends collagen production into overdrive, whilst radiofrequency energy is simultaneously delivered to multiple depths in the skin via the tiny needles that pierce the skin, for a deeper level of renewal than the CO2 fractional laser resurfacing alone. This means the full thickness from the epidermis to the deeper dermal layers of the face is targeted and renewed. A spongier, clearer, tighter, and more radiant complexion will emerge a few days to a week post-treatment. Three sessions are advised for ultimate results, €550 per session at South William Clinic www.southwilliamspa.com
Tweakment NO 2
FaceTite neck and jowl lift
We can thank tennis ace Any Murray’s mum, Judy, for enlightening the masses on the miracles FaceTite this year, which has earned the moniker Shrink Wrapping in aesthetic circles. It works well on the face but it’s an especially effective non-invasive treatment for shrinking jowls and tightening necks. Again FaceTite harnesses the power of radiofrequency (RF) energy but this time the RF is delivered with a long slim probe inserted underneath the skin via small incisions. The RF causes the skin to heat up and contract,emulsifying fat cells (that are later flushed out by the body’s natural drainage processes) and shortening the collagen fibers that cause jowls and a double chin, while simultaneously tightening and toning the skin. The treatment is often finished off with a few passes of Morpheus 8 (another laser from the FaceTite family) for extra tightening and skin resurfacing. Results are immediate and will improve over time and Expect to be swollen for up to five days post-treatment. It’s a punchy tweakmentstarting from €2000 and can veer up to €4000 depending on the patient, but one session generally is adequate, and results last up to five years. Available from www.venusmedical.ie; www.donnybrookclinic.com and www.cormacjoyce.ie
Tweakment NO 3
BTL Exilis RF Eye Treatment
A quick and surprisingly relaxing fix to help reverse all eye woes, from crow’s feet to lined lids, sunken sockets to drooping brows. Again, Exilis relies on RF energy to work its magic but is enhanced by ultrasound energy emitted at the same time and has FDA approval for use all over the eye socket zone. Both energies are delivered via a probe that is rotated gently around the orbital area, which stimulates new collagen and elastin formation to produce visibly tighter skin and less tired-looking eyes. Results are almost instant (ask your therapist to treat one eye at a time and show you the difference before they treat the other if you like visual proof) and will improve over a few weeks. Eye area treatments start from €250, three sessions are advised for optimum results. Available at www.instuiteofdermotologists.ie; www.lasrandskin.ie
Tweakment NO 4
Skin boosters with micro-Botox Skin boosters, i.e. semi permeant skin hydration, (brand names include Profhilo, Sunekos, Boletoro Revive) are magic solutions injected just under the surface of the skin, which then collectively spreads out into a cushiony, hydrating layer that props up and nourishes the skin from within. Alas, the beautiful results only last between a few weeks to months, depending on the client but when you need to shine for a special event it’s worth the splurge. While most clinics market them as a face treatment, they work wonders when used on crepey necks, chest, and back of hands and can take a decade off these areas in minutes too. For even more impressive results on chests and hands and indeed the face too, an advanced aesthetic doctor can add a few hits of micro Botox to the area being treated. This is a technique when Botox is only injected superficially just below the dermis to tighten the skin and lift the given area like no one’s business (traditional toxins are injected deep into the skin to paralyze neuromodulators and prevent muscle movement). Minimal downtime bar raised red bumps injection sites for up to 24 hours after. Skin boosters average €300 per treatment and micro-Botox is priced per area. Available at www.drmulrooneyclinic.com
Tweakment NO 5
HydraFacial
The perfect pre or indeed post-party, skin pick-me-up is the last word in instant gratification. A six-step treatment, which begins with an application of a mix of glycolic and salicylic acids, which rapidly mimic the resurfacing benefits of a chemical peel without any post-peel scaling or redness. After all the dead cells are peeled away as such, the extraction part ensues and a vortex suction (like a mini face hoover) sucks up all the gunk and dirt stuck in pores or on the surface - seeing all the dirt extracted from your face in what they call the gunkie tube is strangely satisfying. Finally, the skin is infused with the brand's exclusive Beta-HD™ and Antiox serum which drenches the complexion with antioxidants, peptides, and hyaluronic acid. The result is fresh dewy skin, that will belie any excess of the season. Widely available in clinics from around €150, www.hydrafacial.com
Injectable Facials, AKA Profhilo/Sunekos
Good for plumping out skin and tired under eye area
For those who don’t like the augmented look of fillers yet yearn to redensify the skin and subtly plump out facial contours, the new wave of hyaluronic acid injectables promise to do just that. Volite, Teoxane Redensity 1, Sunekos, and Profhilo are all such treatments based around the same component as traditional fillers, i.e. hyaluronic acid (HA) which is a natural hydrating component of human skin. But unlike normal filler, which uses thick cross-linked HA injected very deep into certain spots on the face, the composition of these formulas is much more viscous and lots of microdoses are injected all around the dermis instead. The solution then collectively spreads out into a cushiony, hydrating layer that props up and nourishes the skin from within. While Profhilo is pure HA, Teoxane Redensity 1 and Sunekos, are mixed with amino acids, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals which work to turbo boost collagen and elastin production over the following months. These formulas can be safely used to rejuvenate thin skin around the eye area and work to significantly reduce that hollow-eyed look. When used on crepey necks, chest, and back of hands the plumping and hydrating results are even more evident. Treatments take about 20 minutes, are relatively pain-free and a course of two to three is recommended with a few weeks between each session. Minimal downtime is touted, but in our experience, raised red bumps - which looked like tiny bee stings on the injection sites prevailed for 24 hours after and bruising around the eye area occurred for a few days after. Prices start at around €300 per treatment and results last for a few months.
NECK BOTOX
Good for lined and sagging necks
Many wrongly assume that neurotoxins can only be used in the upper face, whereas expert injectors, who’ve completed advanced training are using botulinum toxin in much more progressive ways. Dr. Jane Mulrooney, of The Dr. Mulrooney Clinic, says the Nefertiti Lift is one of her favourite toxin treatments to administer as it redefines the elegant lines of the jaw and neck for a youthful, tighter, more contoured appearance without surgery. Named after Queen Nefertiti, famed for her long elegant neck, “we place multiple injections along the lower jawline as well as down the side of the neck along the platysma muscle (or the neckbands) which are responsible for pulling the face down. I typically combine this technique with microdoses of neurotoxins in the lower face to stop depressor anguli oris muscle pulling down the corners of the mouth and also some very superficial injections on the skin along the jawline. This collectively lifts up the jawline area, smooths out the skin on the neck and gives great definition to the lower face. “The treatment takes around 20 minutes and a numbing cream is applied for comfort first, results typically take two weeks to activate, and Dr. Mulrooney sees all patients after a fortnight to top or tweak the face and neck if necessary. Prices start at €400.
Dermaplaning
Good for a super smooth and hair free complexion
Possibly the most Instagrammed skin treatment of 2019, Dermaplaning, according to Professor Caitriona Ryan, Consultant Dermatologist of the Institute of Dermatologists explains, “is a very simple mechanical exfoliation technique. A surgical blade is used to gently remove vellus facial hair (peach fuzz) and the outermost skin cells of the stratum corneum to produce smoother brighter skin. It also enhances the penetration of skincare products and improves the appearance of makeup. It is very safe and even suitable for sensitive skin.” The ‘before and after’ shots on Instagram typically illustrate a satisfying difference from dull and fuzzy, to smooth and glowy skin. Typically a dermaplaning treatment is preluded with a light AHA peel for extra exfoliation and followed by a mask to enhance hydration. Expect baby smooth skin, zero peach fuzz (until it grows back, of course), and slightly brighter-looking skin for up to four weeks afterward. And contrary to the old adage, facial hair will not grow back any thicker or faster than before. Prices average between €80-€100 is the average when combined with a peel and mask or as part of another facial package.
LED therapy
Good for targeting acne, eczema, psoriasis and dull skin
Not to be confused with laser treatment, LED therapy was originally developed for astronauts to help with tissue healing and repair. It harnesses the beneficial light waves found in sunlight (i.e. blue, yellow, amber and red) while filtering out the damaging UV rays. Hence why a session under an LED mask or panel, feels not too dissimilar to basking in the warm glow of the sun. Dermalux is the LED treatment of choice for skin devotees and celebrities everywhere and a twenty-minute session instantly energizes skin cells and will revitalize a dull and tired complexion. The lightwave combination can be adjusted to best meet your skin needs: blue to destroy acne-causing bacteria; amber for an anti-inflammatory action on eczema and psoriasis etc: while red stimulates fibroblast and collagen production, so is ideal for plumping out fine lines, scars, and wrinkles.
The results are cumulative and long term, so a few treatments are ideal but even after one session, skin looks glowing as soon as you slip out from under the panels. What’s more, the healing properties make it ideal for use after other procedures, such as peels, lasers, and micro-needling or for turbo-boosting the effects of a facial. Suitable for all skin types and tones, prices vary between clinics but average at €60 per session, or €40 as an add on to another treatment.
Kybella /Kylie injection/ Slim Chin
Good for dissolving small pockets of stubborn fat
Double chins traditionally were almost impossible to treat without a scalpel, but Kybella is promising supermodel jawlines to all in their lunch hour. A synthetic form of deoxycholic acid, an acid that is naturally produced by your body to aid in the breakdown of dietary fat, is simply injected into the submental fat layer beneath your chin. Within minutes, the acid kills the cells through a process known as lysis; in the weeks that follow, your immune system will naturally and permanently dispose of the cellular debris. It typically only works on mild to moderate double chins and the fat pouch has to be convex, not concave fat, i.e. the fat rolls outward - not inward to the neck in order for it to work. The fat cells destroyed do not plump back up or regenerate and multiple treatments (two to four are advised for optimum results) result in a slimmer and tauter appearance of the chin and neck. Treatments take about 20 minutes and there might be very minor bruising and swelling for a few days after. Prices around €400 per treatment.
Ultherapy
Good for tightening the neck, jowels and sagging skin
Hollywood’s favourite non-invasive firming treatment, Ultherapy harnesses ultrasound technology to inflict a thermal injury deep in the skin of the face, neck, or décolleté, without any needles or skin penetration. This, in turn, causes a huge surge in collagen production to tighten, tone and lift minimally-to-moderately saggy skin. The energy is passed through a wand or transducer – which is directed over parts of face and neck and the sensation is not especially pleasant and gets worse with the number of passes or pressure applied. Mostly it’s bearable and each pass of the wand is brief. Treatments take an hour or more and there is no downtime, just a little redness, and light swelling afterward. Skin looks instantly tighter and brighter but and full results take up to three months to take effect. Depending on the skin laxity, you can expect subtle lifting to moderate skin tightening. Prices vary wildly between clinics but around €500 for eye and brow lifting and can go up to €3500 for a full face jaw and neck treatment.
The Liquid Facelift
Good for restoring lost facial volume and contours
The 7 point shape, also known as the liquid facelift uses HA filler, to give the eye area, entire mid and lower face a noticeably lifted and fuller appearance. Dr. Eithne Brenner, of Manara Skin Clinics, says, “we are now looking beyond individual zones of concern to the definitive causes of the signs of ageing - which is often fat loss and bone resorption in parts of the face. The degeneration of the underlying facial structures means the skin has less to cling onto per se, and the features and skin begin to descent. To correct this we rebuild the underlying foundations using small doses of non-permanent HA dermal fillers, injected into seven key areas of the face to achieve a subtle and overall lift in volume and redefinition all of the contours - namely the jawline, cheeks, eyes, and mouth areas” says Brenner. Injection points include the junction between the cheek and the temple, under the eye area, the cheeks, chin and the nasolabial folds. The treatment takes 45 – 60 minutes and an ice pack or numbing cream will be applied to minimise any discomfort from the injections, which depending on your pain threshold can be quite acute but very brief. Expert slight swelling and possibly bruising afterward. Prices from €750 and results should last 12 – 14 months.
Lower and upper eye lift
Good for permanent eye bags and droopy eyelids
When it comes to dramatically rejuvenate the eye area, Consultant Plastic Surgeon Mr. Richard Hanson says depending on the patient, he can get a great result without the scalpel by injecting neurotoxins into the tail of the eyebrow as well as between the brows, as it stops the muscles from pulling downward and lifts the entire periorbital area. However if the skin between the lash line and the eyebrow is particularly droopy or if there is hooding of the lid, Hanson feels upper eyelid blepharoplasty, “is the most effective way to wiping away years in less than an hour. It’s a very short and safe, minimally invasive procedure and can be done under local anaesthetic (or general if preferred). We usually remove a small oval-shaped piece of skin and we usually need to also remove some of the underlying muscle and a little fat too. For lids that are starting to bulge with fat herniation Hanson says, “non-operative treatments usually let everyone down and I would only go the surgical route here.” For a lower blepharoplasty, the surgical incision is either on the inside of the lid, which does not result in any visible scar, or just below the lashes. In the first case, it is only possible to remove fat from the fat pads. If the incision is made below the lashes, it is possible to remove and move fat (transposition) and also possible to stretch the ski
Hanson adds, “that fat transfer is an amazing addition to most periorbital surgeries focusing on volume loss and rejuvenation. We simply take a little of the patient's fat from their flanks typically and place it under the eyes. It’s better than filler as it’s the patient’s own cells and gives a lovely finish.” Patients typically go home the same day after surgery and swelling and bruising is inevitable following the procedure, but it usually goes down after 10 days to two weeks. Costs from around €4500.